In the world of skincare, there's a multitude of tips, routines, and tutorials explaining the correct order for applying products. Serum before cream? Eye cream before or after moisturizer? Oil last? Faced with these sometimes contradictory recommendations, one question often arises: is the order of application truly a science, or simply a marketing myth?
The truth lies somewhere in between. To understand why this question is so prevalent in beauty discussions, it's essential to first understand that skin cannot absorb everything applied to it indefinitely. Each product has its own unique texture, density, and composition. Some are designed to penetrate quickly, while others remain on the surface, forming a protective barrier. If a certain logic isn't followed during application, active ingredients may be less effective, textures may pill or leave a greasy finish, and sun protection or makeup may be compromised.
The science behind skin absorption
Our skin is a complex organ, and its outer layer, called the stratum corneum, acts as a protective shield. This barrier is selective: it allows some molecules to pass through, but not all, and even less so if they are blocked by a previously applied oily film.
Two factors are crucial in understanding why the order matters. First, the size of the molecules: small molecules like low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid or pure vitamin C penetrate easily, while larger molecules tend to remain on the surface and act as moisturizers or protectants. Second, the formulation: water-based products penetrate more quickly, while those rich in oils or butters create a barrier that slows the absorption of subsequent skincare products.
This is why most experts recommend starting with the lightest and most penetrating products, and ending with the richest and most protective ones.
The logic: from lightest to richest
The most commonly accepted rule, validated by dermatologists, is to apply products from the most fluid to the thickest, from the most penetrating to the most protective. This allows targeted active ingredients to reach the skin without obstruction, while richer treatments then seal in moisture and protect the skin's surface.
In the morning, for example, we generally start with a gentle cleanser, followed by a lotion or toner. Next comes a water-based serum, often enriched with vitamin C or hyaluronic acid, then a specific treatment such as a niacinamide or peptide serum. After that, we apply moisturizer, and finally, sunscreen, which forms the final protective layer before makeup.
In the evening, the logic remains similar, but you start with makeup removal and cleansing, before applying a toner or lotion. Water-based serums or serums with powerful active ingredients like retinol come next, followed possibly by an oil-based serum. The routine ends with a night cream or a nourishing oil suited to your skin type.
Exceptions to the rule
As is often the case in cosmetics, there are exceptions. Certain dermatological treatments, such as retinoids or acne treatments, should be applied before moisturizer, unless otherwise indicated. Eye creams, on the other hand, are often lighter than face creams, but some formulas are designed to be applied afterward. Very fine oils, rich in active ingredients, can also be applied before cream, particularly on very dry skin that needs more nourishing treatments.
The most common mistakes
One of the most common mistakes is applying sunscreen as the first layer. It should always be applied last in the morning, before makeup, to create an even layer of protection. Another frequent error is applying a serum after a rich oil, as this blocks the penetration of water-soluble active ingredients. We also often see routines with too many layers, which can cause pilling, irritation, and reduced effectiveness. Finally, it's important to ensure the compatibility of active ingredients: for example, combining retinol and glycolic acid in the same routine can irritate the skin.
Between science and marketing
Science confirms that the penetration of active ingredients depends on the texture, formulation, and size of the molecules, which justifies a specific order of application. Marketing, for its part, often adds detailed protocols to encourage the use of complete product lines. Products within the same line are generally designed to work together and offer a harmonious sensory experience, but this does not mean that their order is always strictly necessary for effectiveness.
Some technologies, such as capsules or liposomes, require a specific order to release the active ingredients correctly. In this case, following the manufacturer's instructions is essential.
Adapt the routine to your skin
There's no one-size-fits-all order. Dry skin will need more protective layers, while oily skin will benefit from lightweight textures and minimal layering. Sensitive skin, on the other hand, should limit the number of strong active ingredients in a single routine to avoid reactions.
Ideally, you should always start by applying treatment products to bare skin, then adjust the rest of your routine according to the season, climate, and your current needs. In winter, dehydrated skin will benefit from a rich serum followed by a thicker cream. In summer, a light moisturizer before sunscreen will often suffice.
New trends that are disrupting the established order
Skinimalism, which advocates shorter and simpler routines, intentionally reduces the number of steps to limit the risk of irritation and promote consistency. Some people also experiment with "reverse layering," which involves applying an oil before a cream, particularly for very dry skin. Others opt for multimasking, using several targeted masks on different areas of the face before starting their regular routine.
Your facial routine with Born To Bio!
We offer you a facial routine with different steps!
- Step 1: Almond & Argan Facial Cleansing Foam : Gently cleanse your skin
- Step 2: Almond & Argan Facial Scrub : Cleanse your skin while removing dead cells
- Step 3: Facial Treatment – Comfort : Deeply nourish your skin
Almond and argan are ingredients you'll find at Born To Bio, but citrus fruits, as well as honey and calendula, are also active ingredients regularly used by the brand! Discover their citrus, honey, and calendula facial routines!
So, myth or science?
In conclusion, the order of skincare application is based on solid scientific principles: the skin absorbs certain active ingredients better when applied in a specific sequence. However, marketing has also contributed to amplifying this concept, creating precise protocols that aren't always necessary. The key is to understand the logic behind these steps so you can adapt them to your own skin.
Applying your products from lightest to richest, prioritizing targeted active ingredients at the beginning of your routine, and saving sunscreen for last in the morning are simple principles that help optimize results. It's not a hard and fast rule, but an effective guide to maximizing the benefits of your skincare.
Find out more! Discover with the TFI channel how to apply your Skincare routine: "Skincare routine": in what order should you apply your beauty products?
And check out this article from Vogue France on how to get beautiful skin in just a few days: Skin Cycling: This New York dermatologist shares her secret for gorgeous skin in 4 days
